Matting and framing a work of art can be expensive, but it doesn't have to be if you follow these tips learned through my years of experience.

 

1.  Works on paper such as watercolors  and prints have to be framed under glass to protect them from dust and dampness, which can cause the paper to sag and the colors to run. I only had this happen to me one time, but is was a valuable lesson. Frames with glass can be purchased very inexpensively on line, or at any crafts store such as Michaels, or art supply store such as Dick Blick. I suggest simple metal frames because they are better made than the plastic ones, always look elegant, and do not detract from the artwork like large, ornate wooden ones sometimes do.

 

2.  I think works on paper look best in a mat. The mat is the heavy cardboard-like border that is included with most glass fames.  I have sized my watercolors and prints so they will fit into standard size frames and mats whenever possible.  All you have to do is put the work into the mat, keep it in place with removable painters masking tape (never use Scotch tape), and then reassemble the frame following the manufacturer's instructions. Voila! A beautiful work of art ready for display.

 

3.  But suppose the frame does not come with a mat, or comes with a cheap paper one you will not want to use. No problem at all. You can buy ready-cut mats in the sizes I have indicated in my item descriptions. Here are some hints: (1) choose white, off-white, or black mats instead of the pretty colored ones because the neutral colors look better in the long run. Art galleries and museums  nearly always use neutral color mats. (2) if you want to stop the paper from yellowing over time, choose acid-free mat board instead of the regular mat board. It costs a bit more, however.

 

4. Ready-cut mats can be purchased at online shops such Redimat,  at crafts stores, and at art supply stores. Or you can have a person who specializes in framing cut one just for you. You can also buy matboard and cut the mat yourself...but I suggest you do not do this because it is hard, hard, hard until you gain experience!

 

5. If the artwork is not rectangular, it will not fit into the standard sized mats and frames sold in most crafts supply stores because for some reason they do not usually sell square frames. But again, this is not a problem. You can have a mat cut to fit the dimensions of any artwork, and you can easily assemble your own frame using frame section kits. I suggest you talk to a frame shop about this if you have never framed anything before. But if you have experience, frame kits in all sizes can be purchased online, at crafts stores, and at art supply stores. But remember, the frame you make must be bigger than the artwork to allow for the mat, and it must be of a type that will hold glass. Once you make the frame, you can get glass cut to fit at a glass shop or at many home supply stores.

 

6. Works on Canvas such as oils and acrylics do not need to be matted or put under glass. All you need to do is put them in what is called an open back frame (no glass) and you are good to go. These frames can also be purchased online as well as in craft and art supply stores. My only suggestion is to take the canvas with you and try it out in various frames before buying one. Not all colors and styles work equally well with a piece. If you are unsure about what kind of frame works best, buy a simple metal or wood frame rather than an ornate one.

 

7. Wrapped Canvas.   All of my large scale paintings, and some of my smaller ones, are done on wrapped canvases. Although you can buy similar canvases from art supply shops, the ones I use are in a style invented by my husband just for me. They have smoothly rounded edges, and are very heavy duty. I have never seen anyone else use this particular design. I know you will like it. Because the canvas is wrapped completely around the edge of the stretcher bars and then painted, wrapped canvases do not have to be framed. They seem to float on the wall. It's a good look.